Mauser Swedish

Swedish Mauser Scout Rifle Project

This Swedish Mauser Model 1894 started life as a 23 1/2" Rifle with a Birch full stock. It was originally built in 1916 by Carl Gustaf. I think I bought it in 1986 at a local Gunshow.

I was contemplating having it professionaly sporterized but after going to the range and seeing how accurate it was I decided it really didn't need much work. As luck would have it my Uncle had a Bolt with a new handle that headspaced just fine. This meant I didn't have to have the bolt welded or bent.

So, here's a list of what I bought:

Royal Arms Maple stock.

Bubinga blank - for the tip and cap.

Brownell Barrel Crowning kit.

AR-15 scope base.

Weaver flat scope base. Marlin type.

Bushnell Intermediate Eye relief scope 2.5x6

Jarvis mixed gunsmithing screws.

6x48 drills and taps.

Extended floorplate release.

Scope Mount:

I wanted to do all the work myself. This included mounting the scope. I really don't like the after market scope bases that replace the rear sight on military rifles. They're just too high and I don't think one is made for the Swed anyway. My idea was to convert an AR-15 one piece mount. I tried this first.

The base was cut to length. A hole was drilled where the sight ladder pin went through and acted like the see-saw point. A threaded rod was used to tighten the "see-saw" .

It just didn't look right. It looked like the aftermarket models. So, the next idea was to find a lower profile base that would work. I scrounged around the parts bin and found an extra Weaver flat base, which was originally for my Marlin 1894.

I removed the rear sight ladder from the base and used a hacksaw and files to fit the base between the 4 posts of the rear sight. The Weaver base is aluminum so it's easy to work with hand tools.

A comparison:

Top: AR-15 mount---Bottom: Weaver flat bottom base.

The two hole that hold the sight ladder would allow 2 screws to pass through into the base. The two rear post were solid. I had to drill a hole through each one for screws to hold the rear part of the base. After checking the fit I drilled throught the post and into the base with a number ## bit. Then I used a 6x48 tap to thread the holes in the base.

Here's the Weaver base installed with a pair of Burris ZEE Rings. The ZEE rings slide onto the mount. This means the scope cannot be tipped off like with Weaver Rings.

Barrel Cutting:

I had to decided what length to make the barrel. This being a Scout Rifle I went for 19 inches.

The rifle was disassembled and cleaned and a piece of tape was wrapped around the barrel. I cut it with a plain old fine tooth hacksaw.

After cutting the barrel I had to Crown it. This is were the Brownell kit comes in. There's a pilot, flat cutter, 45degree cutter and "T" handle.

The process involves making the bore slightly recessed and smoothing the end cut. Looks good doesn't it.

Finish the Metal:

The barrel looks quite smooth but was really a bit rough. I used strips of emery paper and aluminum oxide paper to smooth it out.

I bought Pilkington's Solution from Brownell's to do a Real Rust Blue on the metal.

It took over 6 to 7 coats to get the right finish. Each cost requires 4 hour to "RUST". The the metal needs to be boiled until the rust turns to Black Oxide. Then this finish needs to be "CARDED" using a very fine wire wheel.

Well here's the finished product. A Semi-Scout really.